The Renaissance, the rebirth of Europe, swept through Jaén like wildfire; its influence reaching into just about every corner and leaving us a legacy that is a unique glimpse of a country at the peak of its confidence in one of the golden ages of its history.
Regal palaces, intricate sculptures, regency houses, wide picturesque streets, unforgettable paintings, superbly crafted jewellery and tranquil squares are just a few of the many examples that represent the Renaissance in Jaén. The works of master craftsmen such as Siloé, Andrés de Vandelvira, Francisco del Castillo "the Younger" and many others are all on display in the streets and squares of towns and villages many of which, because of their intrinsic artistic value, have now been designated as Patrimony for Humanity by UNESCO.
Jaén province offers the possibility to follow many routes that are filled with a wealth of monuments so that the traveller can see for herself the impression left by some of Jaén’s most creative minds.
JAÉN is the starting point of the Renaissance Trail. Here, the Cathedral, a singularly impressive example of Andalusian Renaissance, is the culminating work of Andrés de Vandelvira. The Architect, aside from the overall conception of the project, also worked on the south facade, the sacristy, the chapter house and the old pantheon, which is today the cathedral museum. Vandelvira also took part in the door of the now gone Church of San Miguel (today in the Provincial Museum) and the tower of the church of La Magdalena.
Other Renaissance features in Jaén include the doors of the old Public Granary (today the door of the provincial museum), the main façade of the church of San Ildefonso as well as many palaces and houses of former noblemen, such as those of the Vilches family or Captain Aranda.
Taking the N.321 from Jaén a small turn off (at around 5 km) leads to Mancha Real, a Renaissance city with a typically orthogonal street layout. Here, the parish church of San Juan Bautista is attributed to the Vandelvira school.
From Mancha Real, the N321 crosses the Guadalquivir valley and river at a place known as the Puente del Obispo. Here we can see a stone bridge constructed over the river in 16th century by Bishop Don Alonso de la Fuente y del Sauce.
Following along the A316 the route comes to Baeza, arguably one of the most impressive centres Renaissance architecture in Jaén if not Spain. Here there’s lots to see. For example; the Church of San Francisco, the design of which represents the peak of Vandelviras’ talent as an architect; or the Plaza de Santa María the jewel of which is the remarkable Cathedral, again the work of highly productive Andrés de Vandelvira. The centre of this square is adorned with an ornate fountain, built in honour of the emperor Charles V.
Heraldic shields on the ornate facades of palaces and aristocratic town houses of ancient families line beautifully conserved city streets. These bear testament to the noble lineage of families such as Cabrera, Acuña, Galeote and Escalante many of whom played a pivotal part in the construction of Spanish heritage.
Civic buildings from this period include the Old University, the Old Meat Market in the Plaza del Populo, the Civil Courts and the Notary's Offices. The actual town hall was once the Palace of Justice and Prison.
Another supreme example of Renaissance architecture in Jaén is that found in the city of Ubeda, the next stop on this visit. This town has to be one of the most striking and important examples of the Renaissance mode of thinking in Spain, if not in Europe. Here, one of the principal architects of Jaén’s Renaissance heritage, Andrés of Vandelvira, left some of his finest work.
A classic example is found in the Plaza Vazquez de Molina where there is an imposing group of civil and religious buildings. Among the latter the most noteworthy example is the Sacred Chapel of El Salvador. Its original design was by Siloé but was completed by Andrés de Vandelvira and it can arguably be listed as the most impressive private religious building that dates from the Spanish Renaissance. Near this same location are found the palace of Dean Ortega, today a National Tourist Inn, and the Honrados Viejos del Salvador Hospital.
In the same square is the Juan Vazquez de Molina Palace, again constructed by Vandelvira, and which today is the headquarters of the City Council. To one side lies the Collegiate Church of Santa María de los Reales Alcazares, which in fact is a compendium of several styles reflecting architectural thought over several centuries, and which is of great symbolic value to the city. Next to this are found the Carcel del Obispo (the bishop’s prison), the Palace of Marco de Mancera (16th-17th) and the old Public Granary.
Another of the main landmarks of Úbeda is the Hospital de Santiago, built by Andrés de Vandelvira, and considered by many to be one of the best Renaissance works in Spain.
Among the numerous churches found in Úbeda the church of San Isidoro, one of the most classical pieces in the city and built by Alonso Barba, disciple of Vandelvira (who else?) is particularly worth seeing. In the Chapel of the Camarero Vago, located inside the church of San Pablo, there is an excellent example of Plateresque funeral Architecture, as well as superb examples of 16th century grillwork.
In terms of civil Architecture from the period, the Old Town Hall is a particularly fine example and among the numerous palaces the Vela de los Cobos Palace, the Palace of Don Francisco de los Cobos y Molina, the House of the Towers, and the palaces of the Marquess of Contadero and that of the Orozco family amongst others, are all worth a mention for their style and architectural vision.
The route now follows the A301 from Úbeda 9 Km towards the town of Sabiote. Here there is an imposing castle that dates from the 13th century and which was rebuilt in 16th century as a residence for Don Francisco de los Cobos. Another of the foundations of the Cobos family in this village is the church and convent of the barefoot Carmelites. In this village, too, several palaces and aristocratic houses dating from the 16th century can be visited.
About 5 Km to the south of Sabiote, along the A322, lies Torreperogil with its Church of La Asunción which was originally built following the tenets of Gothic architecture but which was altered in the 16th century. Further along the A322 (???) is the village of Villacarrillo where the Parish church of La Asunción, one of the best works of the widely travelled and prodigious Andrés Vandelvira, can be found.
Other Renaissance Trails:
Off the main route from Jaén to Villacarrillo are yet more villages that emphasise the importance of Jaen’s Renaissance heritage.
* The Sierra Mágina Route
La Guardia, a village 13 km away from Jaén city along the A324 has an imposing castle and a convent of the Dominican Order. From here and following the A324 (????) into the Sierra Mágina Natural Park, the village of Huelma is home to the church of Santa Concepción and Cabra de Santo Cristo as well as the church of La Expectación.
* The Cazorla-La Iruela Route
In Cazorla, there is another important work by Vandelvira, the church of Santa María, although this is ow unfortunately in ruins. Two kilometres away from Cazorla is La Iruela, which has the ruins of a Dominican Convent, inspired by Vandelvira, and a parish church dating from the 16th century.
* The Northeast Route (Segura-Las Villas)
In the northeastern part of the province lies Segura de la Sierra, a special historical and artistic site, in which stands a monumental fountain from the 16th century. In a neighbouring village, Sorihuela del Guadilamar is the church of Santa Agueda. There is only 10km between this hamlet and Castellar, which boasts the church of La Incarnación and the old Collegiate Church, the latter the work of Juan de Aranda y Salazar and dedicated to Saint Santiago.
* The La Loma Route
Ibros, with its church of San Pedro and San Pablo, is an example of a rather sombre Renaissance style. Next is the village of Rus with the Renaissance church of Las Asunción, attributed to the Vandelvira School.
At a very short distance away lies Canena in which is found the splendid castle-residence of Don Francisco de los Cobos, and which again was constructed by Vandelvira. Also dating from the 16th century is the church of La Concepción.
Rounding off this trail in Linares, there is the quite remarkable parish church of Santa Maria de la Asunción.
* The Sierra Morena Trail Renaissance architecture is well represented in Andujar in many of its churches and palaces found here. Of particular mention is the church of Santa María which boasts a Renaissance façade and in its interior displays an El Greco. In San Miguel there is a Plateresque side door and in the church of Santiago a grille by the master builder Bartolome remains in its original location. Among the palaces from the period, perhaps the most remarkable are those of the Children of Don Gome and of Perez de Vargas.
In Baños de la Encina there is a marked contrast between the well preserved Arabic castle dating from the 10th century and the beautiful parish church of San Mateo. This latter building incorporates a Gothic nave and an octagonal Renaissance tower dating from 1596.
* The Southern Trail Torredonjimeno offers two clear examples of its Renaissance heritage: the church of San Pedro and the Town Hall.
A short distance away from here Martos, with its remarkable Town Hall, the work of the master Francisco del Castillo "the younger", provides a tranquil stopping point along the way. The so-called New Fountain is the work of the same master builder. Among the churches which have a Renaissance touch, the most notable is that of Santa Marta.
Little more than 30 Km away lies Castillo de Locubin. This village is home to the church of San Pedro on which Juan of Aranda, a native to this village, worked.
Finally, in Alcala la Real (9km.), the church of Santa Maria la Mayor, which is built inside the enclosure of La Mota, a classic Arabic castle on top of a strategically important rise, demonstrates a transition between Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. The churches of Consolation, with its beautiful cloister, and that of San Juan Bautista, are also fine examples of Renaissance work.
Following along the A316 the route comes to Baeza, arguably one of the most impressive centres Renaissance architecture in Jaén if not Spain. Here there’s lots to see. For example; the Church of San Francisco, the design of which represents the peak of Vandelviras’ talent as an architect; or the Plaza de Santa María the jewel of which is the remarkable Cathedral, again the work of highly productive Andrés de Vandelvira. The centre of this square is adorned with an ornate fountain, built in honour of the emperor Charles V. 
In the same square is the Juan Vazquez de Molina Palace, again constructed by Vandelvira, and which today is the headquarters of the City Council. To one side lies the Collegiate Church of Santa María de los Reales Alcazares, which in fact is a compendium of several styles reflecting architectural thought over several centuries, and which is of great symbolic value to the city. Next to this are found the Carcel del Obispo (the bishop’s prison), the Palace of Marco de Mancera (16th-17th) and the old Public Granary. 
Other Renaissance Trails: 
Renaissance architecture is well represented in Andujar in many of its churches and palaces found here. Of particular mention is the church of Santa María which boasts a Renaissance façade and in its interior displays an El Greco. In San Miguel there is a Plateresque side door and in the church of Santiago a grille by the master builder Bartolome remains in its original location. Among the palaces from the period, perhaps the most remarkable are those of the Children of Don Gome and of Perez de Vargas.