The Renaissance, the rebirth of Europe, swept through Jaén like wildfire; its influence reaching into just about every corner and leaving us a legacy that is a unique glimpse of a country at the peak of its confidence in one of the golden ages of its history.
Regal palaces, intricate sculptures, regency houses, wide picturesque streets, unforgettable paintings, superbly crafted jewellery and tranquil squares are just a few of the many examples that represent the Renaissance in Jaén. The works of master craftsmen such as Siloé, Andrés de Vandelvira, Francisco del Castillo "the Younger" and many others are all on display in the streets and squares of towns and villages many of which, because of their intrinsic artistic value, have now been designated as Patrimony for Humanity by UNESCO.
Jaén province offers the possibility to follow many routes that are filled with a wealth of monuments so that the traveller can see for herself the impression left by some of Jaén’s most creative minds.
JAÉN is the starting point of the Renaissance Trail. Here, the Cathedral, a singularly impressive example of Andalusian Renaissance, is the culminating work of Andrés de Vandelvira. The Architect, aside from the overall conception of the project, also worked on the south facade, the sacristy, the chapter house and the old pantheon, which is today the cathedral museum. Vandelvira also took part in the door of the now gone Church of San Miguel (today in the Provincial Museum) and the tower of the church of La Magdalena.
Other Renaissance features in Jaén include the doors of the old Public Granary (today the door of the provincial museum), the main façade of the church of San Ildefonso as well as many palaces and houses of former noblemen, such as those of the Vilches family or Captain Aranda.
Taking the N.321 from Jaén a small turn off (at around 5 km) leads to Mancha Real, a Renaissance city with a typically orthogonal street layout. Here, the parish church of San Juan Bautista is attributed to the Vandelvira school.
From Mancha Real, the (N321) crosses the Guadalquivir valley and river at a place known as the Puente del Obispo. Here we can see a stone bridge constructed over the river in 16th century by Bishop Don Alonso de la Fuente y del Sauce.
Following along the A316 the route comes to Baeza, arguably one of the most impressive centres Renaissance architecture in Jaén if not Spain. Here there’s lots to see. For example; the Church of San Francisco, the design of which represents the peak of Vandelviras’ talent as an architect; or the Plaza de Santa María the jewel of which is the remarkable Cathedral, again the work of highly productive Andrés de Vandelvira. The centre of this square is adorned with an ornate fountain, built in honour of the emperor Charles V.
Heraldic shields on the ornate facades of palaces and aristocratic town houses of ancient families line beautifully conserved city streets. These bear testament to the noble lineage of families such as Cabrera, Acuña, Galeote and Escalante many of whom played a pivotal part in the construction of Spanish heritage.
Civic buildings from this period include the Old University, the Old Meat Market in the Plaza del Populo, the Civil Courts and the Notary's Offices. The actual town hall was once the Palace of Justice and Prison.
Another supreme example of Renaissance architecture in Jaén is that found in the city of Ubeda, the next stop on this visit. This town has to be one of the most striking and important examples of the Renaissance mode of thinking in Spain, if not in Europe. Here, one of the principal architects of Jaén’s Renaissance heritage, Andrés of Vandelvira, left some of his finest work.
A classic example is found in the Plaza Vazquez de Molina where there is an imposing group of civil and religious buildings. Among the latter the most noteworthy example is the Sacred Chapel of El Salvador. Its original design was by Siloé but was completed by Andrés de Vandelvira and it can arguably be listed as the most impressive private religious building that dates from the Spanish Renaissance. Near this same location are found the palace of Dean Ortega, today a National Tourist Inn, and the Honrados Viejos del Salvador Hospital.
In the same square is the Juan Vazquez de Molina Palace, again constructed by Vandelvira, and which today is the headquarters of the City Council. To one side lies the Collegiate Church of Santa María de los Reales Alcazares, which in fact is a compendium of several styles reflecting architectural thought over several centuries, and which is of great symbolic value to the city. Next to this are found the Carcel del Obispo (the bishop’s prison), the Palace of Marco de Mancera (16th-17th) and the old Public Granary.
Another of the main landmarks of Úbeda is the Hospital de Santiago, built by Andrés de Vandelvira, and considered by many to be one of the best Renaissance works in Spain.
Among the numerous churches found in Úbeda the church of San Isidoro, one of the most classical pieces in the city and built by Alonso Barba, disciple of Vandelvira (who else?) is particularly worth seeing. In the Chapel of the Camarero Vago, located inside the church of San Pablo, there is an excellent example of Plateresque funeral Architecture, as well as superb examples of 16th century grillwork.
In terms of civil Architecture from the period, the Old Town Hall is a particularly fine example and among the numerous palaces the Vela de los Cobos Palace, the Palace of Don Francisco de los Cobos y Molina, the House of the Towers, and the palaces of the Marquess of Contadero and that of the Orozco family amongst others, are all worth a mention for their style and architectural vision.
The route now follows the A301 from Úbeda 9 Km towards the town of Sabiote. Here there is an imposing castle that dates from the 13th century and which was rebuilt in 16th century as a residence for Don Francisco de los Cobos. Another of the foundations of the Cobos family in this village is the church and convent of the barefoot Carmelites. In this village, too, several palaces and aristocratic houses dating from the 16th century can be visited.
About 5 Km to the south of Sabiote, along the A322, lies Torreperogil with its Church of La Asunción which was originally built following the tenets of Gothic architecture but which was altered in the 16th century. Further along the A322 is the village of Villacarrillo where the Parish church of La Asunción, one of the best works of the widely travelled and prodigious Andrés Vandelvira, can be found.
Más información:
http://www.ujaen.es/jaen/
http://turismoactivo.turispain.com/
http://www.welcom
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