A ragged landscape wracked by war. Armies on the march, the clash of cold steel on steel, flesh and bone. Soria was, for many decades, frontier country between radically different cultures where understanding and tolerance was restricted to the most personal level, a fact more than evident by fortifications that, long sightless, stare back through the mists of time.
If it's history you want, Soria has it all. The long years of war that raged from the eighth to the eleventh centuries between Christians and Moors resulted in some of the most remarkable structures created by the warped genius of the human mind. Even before, during the time of the Roman occupation, defensive structures were built that have survived the eons of wind and storm, sun and rain and the carelessness of successive generations.
Nearly every town and village has a fortress, castle or early warning tower that, with the passage of time has been converted to a church, warehouse or town dwelling. Some, built to cater for whole populations but now wholly deserted (except for the odd wandering archaeologist), are located in the most unexpected places, mute witnesses of history.
The magnificent and mysterious ruined city of Numancia, located 7 km to the north of the capital Soria, is an especially fine example of the local inhabitant’s hopes and fears. It is said that here the entire population, instead of giving in to the hated and feared Roman army, decided to end it all in mass suicide.
But it wasn’t only Numancia that demonstrated its will to remain independent from Roman occupation. Tiermes was another example of the Sorian spirit of independence. In the year 142 BC Rome suffered a revolt from the towns of Numancia and Tiermes. One year later the towns were defended so vigorously that the Roman armies of conquest lost many soldiers in the fight. Tiermes resisted until the year 98 BC, 35 years after the fall of Numancia.
Nowadays the town is home to many curious relics of the past. Houses that appear to have been designed off the cuff, tunnels that were used for water cross the city, tombs and thermal waters, houses built directly into the rock bed, ancient watch towers; this is a city worth visiting.
Examples of the history of the province are endless. After the demise of the Romans and the Visigoths, the Arabs founded the city of Medina-Selim, a city that Abderramán III would convert into the military capital of the region. This town witnessed the time of maximum splendour of the Caliphate of Córdoba in the X century. The Christian era commenced when Alfonso VII finally drove out the Muslims and handed the town to the La Cerda family.
Here there are many fine examples of Roman and Arabic and Christian architecture. The unique roman arch of triumph was built during the reign the Emperor Trajan between 97 to 117 and the Plaza Mayor was constructed as the Ducal Palace during the XV and XVI centuries.
The momentous events that occurred during the 'reconquest', although of immense historical significance, are only part of the attraction. Soria is packed with beauty spots, monuments, hidden trails and beautifully preserved villages whose present-day guardians encourage traditional values and crafts. As all of this is accompanied by fabulous food and wine and makes Soria a superb destination for whatever reason.
Gastronomy of Soria
Soria’s cuisine is an integral part of that of the rest of Castilla y León. The main dishes are those that emphasis meat as the principal ingredient. Roast lamb and port or goat – usually the tender variety – and sausages and cured meat made by pure art. There are, however, one or two recipes that are peculiar to Soria.
Recipes such as the migas Soriana (also known as the migas del pastor – shepherd’s migas), or the níscalos a la cazuela. These dishes were originally designed to be laden with protein for energy as the harsh weather conditions required the people to work long hours.
The dish that uses níscolos is a clear indication of the importance that the study of mycology (fungi and muchroom) has always had in the Sorian kitchen. This is especially so in the region of Pinares where the sierras Neila, Urbión and Cebollera are located. Here it’s easy to find places that, during the right season (usually in the Spring), allow their visitors to try the huge variety of fungi that are found in the countryside.
The migas del pastor is made using bread, green pepper, virgin olive oil, garlic and salt. Other typical dishes include the lamb stew from which doubles up to produce a rich post-meat course soup.
Trout from the sierras is also a favourite dish. This spectacular fish is found in the cold rivers that run off the mountains.
Cured beef is another dish that almost melts in the mouth. The meat that is found here comes from the Serrana Negra Ibérica which roams freely around the green slopes grazing on succulent spring-water fed grass.
Fiestas and Celebrations of Soria
VI Mercado Medieval de Ólvega
from the 28 to 29 July, Ólvega
Fiestas de la Juventud en Ólvega
3 of August, Ólvega
San Lorenzo en Covaleda
10 of August, Covaleda
Virgen del Espino en Burgo de Osma-Ciudad de Osma
15 of August, Burgo de Osma-Ciudad de Osma
Virgen del Pino y San Roque en Vinuesa
from 15 to 16 of August, Vinuesa
Nuestra Señora del Mercado en Berlanga de Duero
20 of August, Berlanga de Duero
Bajada de Jesús en Almazán 3 of September, Almazán
Virgen del Rivero en San Esteban de Gormaz
from the 7 to the 11 of September, San Esteban de Gormaz
Fiestas de Ólvega 2007 from 13 to 18 of September, Ólvega
Santísimo Cristo de la Buena Muerte en Arcos de Jalón
14 of September, Arcos de Jalón
More information:
http://ayto-soria.org/
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