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Olive Oil from Jaén Print E-mail



oliveoil.jpg Jaén is one of the world´s largest producers of olive oil. Every year some 60,000,000 trees are harvested for the ripe fruit that hangs heavy from overladen branches.

All year round every last one of these trees has been lovingly tended, trimmed, watered with complicated watering systems and prepared for their moment of glory.

And the harvest, a huge mobilisation of people and machines, results in the production of thousands of litres of golden, health giving liquid that is a vital part of the Mediterranean staple diet.

Generating its own customs and traditions, the olive harvest is a microcosm of regional identity. The production and care of the olive trees, as well as the harvest and milling of the olives, although changed beyond recognition from the days when it was a labour intensive and highly manual procedure, remains one of the most fundamental of industries for the economic and social wellbeing of the province of Jaén.

During collection of the olives many of the traditional tasks have been maintained over time. Widespread use of mechanical equipment appears to have increased production, although debate is lively as to its long-term effectiveness.

aceiteole.jpgWhen harvest begins the trees are heavy with ripe fruit and, in order to avoid damaging the olives, it's important to harvest them with supreme care. In some places, the traditional process of knocking the olives off the tree with a long pole, a process known as "Vareo" remains in use.

In this very traditional manner an experienced worker hits the branches of the olive tree with a mattock - a long flexible stick - so that the fruit falls onto sheets which lie on the ground under the tree. Meanwhile other workers collect olives that fall on the ground (a task that has traditionally been fulfilled by women).

Once the olives are separated from the leaves they are taken to the mill where the cleaning process is completed and they are weighed into hoppers where, after the milling process, the first golden oil, or virgin olive oil, appears.

In order to maintain the quality of the final product, it’s important that the olives spend as little time in store in the yard at the mills as possible. After pressing, the oil is placed into clean, stainless steel storage tanks where it awaits bottling and distribution.

The process doesn’t end here. Following harvest, the next move is to prune the trees, a process that requires skill. This involves clearing away old branches to allow others to “breathe” and to hasten the growth of new branches.

The cut branches, or “ramon”, are burned in piles between olive trees, or beds as they are also called. Obviously, this work has to be done with extreme care in order to avoid burning the surrounding olive trees.

aceiteoliva11.jpg After pruning and burning of the “ramon” the whole olive grove is ploughed and prepared for the next cycle. On completion each tree is surrounded by a circle of flattened earth with a raised edge so that stones and mud will not damage any fallen fruit should it rain.

When new branches begin to sprout on the tree, small branches that grow around the basis of the trunk must be removed so that the tree can concentrate on nurturing its upper, or fruit bearing branches. It is also necessary to combat disease and to fertilize the trees to improve crop yield. Nowadays chemicals are used but for a long time it was common practice to enrich the local soil with mule dung.

The cycle starts again in December with the harvest. This is a time of mass mobilisation of people who gather together to offer their labour to the farmers. A leader of each group is selected. This leader, or “manijero”, is entrusted to direct harvesting.

The harvest day is long. At midday there is a brief stop to eat and, late in the afternoon, before dusk, work stops. At the end of the season, and to celebrate a successful crop, a fiesta or “butiferia” is held.

Many of the traditional ways associated with the olive season have changed or disappeared. Now, instead of mules transporting the crop, power tractors and slow moving heavy lorries populate the roads to the mills; axes have been replaced by power saws and mattocks have been replaced by vibrating machines.

But most farmers would agree that it has changed for the better; it has evolved in such a way that not only have many of the traditions associated with the olive cycle been preserved but the quality of the final product has been maintained or, many would argue, improved beyond recognition.

More information:
http://www.elaceitedeoliva.org/
 
 


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