Picture a field, then magnify it to a plain that extends horizon to horizon; unbroken and of a magnitude that defies mere thought. Then picture Spain; quintessential, historic, rich in architectural treasures and steeped in artistic culture that spans centuries, reaching into the heart of the Roman, Visigothic, Arabic and Early Christian traditions.
Picture a region, autonomous since 1982 that difines a heritage and that spans the evolution of modern Spain, and perhaps you might picture that essence that is Castilla la Mancha………….or perhaps not.
Visit the region, experience it and embark on a journey of discovery.
Castilla la Mancha is the country of Don Quixote, a fictional giant who strides across the imagination of generation of readers, his footprints as fresh now as they were when he was first created by Miguel de Cervantes over four hundred years ago. Here is the village of El Toboso, the home of Quixote’s fantasmic true love Dulcinea.
Here too are the windmills with which Quixote fought so valiently. Consuegra, a town that boasts not only windmills but also a 13th century castle and lies resplendent surrounded by the October saffron harvest, is typical. Castles of all ages are to be found here making it easy to visualise the waves of different civilisations crashing onto the indifferent shores of history; each one swept aside leaving only traces, albeit well preserved ones, of the hopes, fears and aspirations of the actors who paid the price, played their parts then left the stage.
Toledo, the spiritual centre of Castilla la Mancha, has been the capital of Spain and is still of immense religious importance. After the waning of Roman power, the Visigoths established the focus of their sphere of influence here and, again, after the Muslim star had faded, Toledo became the capital of Christian Spain in 1085.
In 1561, Felipe II transferred the Spanish Court to Madrid and this, coupled with several episodes of ethnic cleansing, ensured Toledo’s decline as an administrative centre.
There are many, many things to see in Toledo. The cathedral is a wonderful example of medieval excessive architecture and includes stunning mudéjar, baroque and neoclassical elements all in close proximity.
It also has paintings by El Greco, Titian, Goya and Van Dyck that are displayed within a sumptuous setting of walnut and alabaster choir stalls.
Toledo was also the home of, and defined the life of El Graco, the Cretian painter Domenikos Theotocopoulos, a life that is well remembered by numerous paintings spread in priviledged places around the city.
Although his actual home no longer stands, a nearby 16th century house has been converted into a wonderful museum and art gallery that celebrates the life and times of this extraordinary immigrant.
Castilla la Mancha is comprised of 5 provinces, all of which are filled with character, castles, nooks and crannies and charm. In Cuenca, the hanging houses in the old town are particularly worth seeing and the nearby ‘Enchanted City’ is made up of strange rock formations sculpted by the elemental forces of milenia.
But what about the food, I hear you cry! Not to worry. In common with all of Spain, the gastronomic adventure has only just begun. Typical of Castilla la Mancha are migas, a dish made on a base of bread and to which many things can be added according to whim.
And, of course, the famous queso manchego, a richly flavoured, full-bodied cheese, can only be described as spectacular.