Would that I could breathe sweet air
That comforts me; filled with mountain life
Would that I could drink from clear waters
That thread green valleys and nourish emerald hills
Would that I could ride endless plains
And walk naked forests o’er scarlet carpets of fallen leaf
Or follow the nightingale’s song far into star-filled nights
Ah…dream of an endless life
Embraced in Al-Andaluz’s gentle arms
- Anon., Al-Andaluz, circa 9th century A.D. Open translation.
In the south of the province of Burgos the dominant influence is the course of the River Duero that stitches it together with Soria to the east, Valladolid to the west and Segovia to the south.
One of the principal monuments worth visiting here is the Monasterio de la Vid, a religious centre whose origins belong to the mid 12th century. This area, being well watered by the waters of the Duero is ideal for the production of vines, origin of some of Spain’s greatest wines.
The capital of the area is Aranda de Duero, a town built as a defensive stronghold against Moorish incursion in the 10th century. The town has always been of strategic importance due to its prosperity generated by the surrounding agricultural variety.
Its most famous monuments include the gothic church of San Juan, possessor of an exquisitely preserved 14th century façade and the supreme architectural treasure, the church of Santa Maria with its elaborate façade constructed between the 15th and 16th centuries.
Further to the west the countryside is punctuated by the impressive castle and town of Peñarande de Duero. The principal palace, ancient feudal home of the Zúñiga-Avellaneda family, was constructed in Renaissance style in the 16th century.
Roman influence can be seen all over the province. In the south, Coruña de Conde boasts a roman bridge as well as a medieval castle and Romanic hermitage.
The Roman city of Clunia close by possesses a theatre partially excavated into the local country rock and there are excellent examples of public works such a water courses and drains that lead to a central forum around which public buildings and private houses can still be identified.
Central Burgos is dominated by the River Arlanza, an ancient trading route between east and west. Here there is a wealth of medieval architecture to see including the beautiful palace of Saldañuela whose rectangular tower makes it a prominent landmark in the surrounding countryside.
It is here in particular that the early Castillian influence on South America architecture can be appreciated.
In the surrounding countryside there is a rare example of hispanovisigothic architecture in the form of the delicately carved façade an interior of the hermitage of La Viñas said to date from the 6th century A.D.
Surrounded by stunningly beautiful countryside is the medieval town of Salas de los Infantes. The town is packed with excellent examples of Romanic architecture and a 16th century church with a well preserved Renaissance style alter-piece and a rather macabre chest in which is said to be preserved the heads of the seven princes of Lara.
The singularly beautiful town of Covarrubias, of royal patronage, is another wonderful example of ancient Castillian power and whose narrow streets are dotted with palaces and houses of the families of noble descent.
The influence of the powerful 10th century Count Fernán González and his daughter, Doña Urraca, is still heavily stamped on the town’s medieval identity. Also represented here is the enigmatic figure of Doña Cristina of Norway, wife of the prince Don Felipe.
She is remembered by a simple sculpture set in a leafy enclave outside the emblematic collegiate of San Cosmes and Damián. Her mortal remains rest in a tomb within the gothic cloisters.
The monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos has both Visigothic and Mozarab remains that date from the 10th century. The town fans out around the monument and, from the vantage point of a neighbouring hillside, appears to be in complete natural harmony with the surrounding countryside.
Other cities of interest for any visitor include Lerma, with its regal four-towered castle and arched defensive walls, and the capital city of Burgos, of incalculable artistic and cultural value and a city that has been the spiritual centre for generations of pilgrims following the route to Santiago.
 Miranda de Ebro, capital of the northern part of the province is a town whose strategic position has been historically critical in that is commands the principal communication routes of the northern part of the country.
To the north lie Cantabria and the Pais Vasco; to the east the isolated inlier of Burgos province surrounded entirely by Basque territory.
From here the Picos de Europa crown the horizon and the countryside evolves from dry Spanish meseta to emerald hills reaching up to towering peaks.
Canyons and mountain passes lead to small villages, many of which hide architectural gems dating back to the beginning of the Spanish collective identity.
More information:
http://www.provinciadeburgos.com/
http://www.turismoburgos.org/
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Last Updated ( Tuesday, 16 September 2008 )
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