It’s impossible, although perhaps achievable in a black and white sense, to visit Burgos without some appreciation of its historical origins.
Capital city of the province of Burgos and, in the 11th century, capital city of the kingdom of Castilla and Leon, one of the many kingdoms that populated the Iberian Peninsula, it scintillates under a clear sky.
It was in the 11th century that Fernando I chose Burgos as his capital while much of the rest of Iberia, especially to the south, was under Moorish domination.
Later, during the joint reign of Fernando of Aragón and Isabele of Castilla, the Catholic Kings, influential merchants established profitable trading concessions with northern European countries here.
It was then that Burgos achieved its maximum splendour.
During the reign of Philip II, Burgos spiraled into decline and, when Napoleon’s ego invaded Spain attempting to establish a puppet ruler, Burgos suffered extensive damage to its medieval castle. Artillery fire from his rampaging troops virtually wiped the old part of the town off the face.
Burgos is a city stuffed full of architectural treasures ranging from the aristocratic arrogance of the Cathedral to the soft elegance of the Paseo del Espolón that runs beside of the River Arlanzón.
This latter is a street lined with plane trees that have been woven together with all the artistry of a master weaver. This, in days gone by was THE place to walk down with studied nonchalance, to see and to be seen, although who am I to say that the custom doesn’t still pertain?……
Burgos was also the stamping ground of El Cid, the 12th century hero who, almost single handedly protected a Christian King, defied another, was banished in shame and then defeated the Moorish invaders, carving out a kingdom for himself in the process and creating one of the most enduring and romantic legends of ancient Spain.
In the Plaza del Cid there is a dramatic statue dedicated to the great man. The work of Juan Cristobal, it is located in front of a bridge that boasts 8 larger than life sculptures of his most notable contemporaries.
One of the principal attractions of Burgos is its comfortable size. It’s easy to walk between monuments in relaxed style and the historic centre, apart from being the focus of the many beautifully maintained buildings, is also home to buildings created more recently in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
White galleries, implanted with acres of glass and painted in contrasting attention vying colours, give the area its own distinctive style.
Burgos is not a city that needs to trumpet its existence. It simply attracts with its own special variety of magic.
Something for the Palate
Apart from the ubiquitous and, it has to be said, delicious cordero asado (roast lamb) there are two especially famed products for with Burgos is best known. These are firstly, the spicy, ricey black pudding (morcilla) and the other is a whole range of cheeses, the sheer variety and taste of which can stun the palate into surrender.
There are also many different types of chorizo and rich tapas to graze over. All this washed down with delicious wines from the Ribero del Duero.
Fiestas
Fiesta of San Lermes – end of January. This traditional festival, centred around San Lermes, the patron saint of the city, is famed for its solemn processions in the area around the Monastery of Huelgas.
San Pedro and San Pablo – end of June. This popular festival, held in high summer, attracts many activities including flower competitions, parties, parades and cultural activities.