History is the ultimate leveller and modern day Badajoz is built on top of the bones of many layers of conquerors and conquered; successive generations of people from different cultures who left evidence of their existence in beautifully preserved buildings and monuments that adorn the old town.
The hill on which Badajoz is built (called the ‘Cerro de la Muela’ or ‘hill that closely resembles a tooth’) is composed of an extremely hard material that forces the Guadiana river, part of the boundary between Portugal and Spain, to the south thus creating a formidable defensive structure.
Its strategic location lends it a privileged and dominant position over the surrounding plains; a feature that encouraged the Romans, the Visigoths and the Moors, to establish a powerful presence here, each of them within their own bubble of space and time.
The Arabic culture was that which left the most indelible mark on Badajoz. One of the most famous incidents during their protracted tenure was that the city was used as an outpost for a breakaway group of rebels who defied the authority of the sultanate of Córdoba; at the time the capital city of Al-Andalus and headquarters of the dominant Omaya tribe.
In the year 875 Ibn Marwan el Chilliqui, an officer in the Moorish army, fled from Córdoba after the assassination of the prime minister of the Omaya Court. It was in Badajoz that he established his stronghold, an event that marked the beginning of years of warring between different Moorish factions.
To this day, Badajoz is one of the only Spanish cities to celebrate its Arabic heritage, although the modern day festivities commemorate no battles and glorify no acts of war; they simply recognise that the city’s roots extend deep into the history and the essence of Spain itself.
In 1230, the city was captured by the forces of Alfonso IX under the flag of Christianity. The upheavals didn’t stop there, however, and the event marked the commencement of a protracted period of turbulence that affected not only Badajoz but the rest of Spain as well. During the 13th and 14th centuries, the life of the city was dominated by the chess board power-plays of political ambition, by civil war and invasion into and from Portugal.
Nowadays, Badajoz has been converted into one of the principal avenues of communication between Spain and Portugal, not only via common historical and cultural links but also by its strategic position bordering the Guadiana river.
The gradual growth of the city and the increasing importance of the university campus has converted Badajoz into the most populous community of Extremadura, and its ancient and colourful traditions, its sought after cuisine and the easy access from its urban centre to the beautiful surrounding countryside, makes it one of the most attractive destinations for any traveller.
Food for Thought:
There are a wealth of flavours on offer in Badajoz. Of particular fame is the ‘caldereta de cordero’, a meat stew laced with meat and spices designed to excite the palate. The ‘cabrito’, or roast goat kid, is wonderfully succulent and the ‘migas extremeñas’, a mix of meat, vegetables and flavourings prepared on a base of bread, literally melt in the mouth.
During the hunting season, game is extremely popular and includes all types of bird and spicy wild boar meat.
The ‘Odobo de Mataza’, a dish made using pork from the Iberian pig, wine and garlic, if well prepared, is one of the highlights of a stay in Extremadura. Fish and game dishes are well represented here. In particular the cod cooked in brine with prickly pear leaves ‘Bacalao en Escabeche con Pencas Silvestres’ and rabbit meat balls cooked in wine and virgin olive oil, ‘Albondigas de Liebre’ are worth a special mention.
And, of course, no recommendation is high enough for the quality of the olive oil from this part of the world. Its light acidity and golden colour make it the perfect accompaniment for just about any main dish.
Fiestas and Events:
CARNIVAL: This particular festival has been declared to be of National Tourist Interest as it is one of the main events of the year, attracting thousands of people from both sides of the border.
SEMANA SANTA: The images that are paraded through the streets of Badajoz could easily be described as works of art in that their preparation and presentation is obviously a labour of love.
ROMERÍA DE LA VIRGEN DE BOTOA: This festival is celebrated on the Sunday following Resurrection Sunday. Many thousands of people migrate to the countryside, some 17 kilometres from Badajoz and celebrate the presence of the Patron Saint of the city.
SAN ISIDRO: Held on the 15th May, this festival is celebrated with a countryside jaunt where celebration is the main event.
FERIAS Y FIESTAS OF SAN JUAN: All through June the city is in celebration. People from both sides of the border, Portuguese and Extremaños, gather to party and go to bullfights, watch street performances, concerts and plays.
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Its location close to the Portuguese border has ensured that Badajoz´s position during times of conflict and boundary exchanges was of immense strategic importance. During the middle ages, both Portugal and Spain used its prime location as a launching point for aggressive incursiones into each others territories.
